Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Understanding Your Sewing Machine Stitches

By David Trumble

How many stitches does a modern sewing machine have? For the first hundred years, the sewing machines only had straight stitches. Today, sewing machines are very different. Today there are whole sets of stitches including, decorative stitches, alphabetic lettering, utility stitches, and over casting stitches. Today sewing machines boast twenty to a thousand different stitches. Most machines enable variations of length and width.

Sewing machines are not all the same. Even sewing machines that look alike, can be very very different. Sewing machines vary in the stitches they offer as well as how they make those stitches.

Mechanical sewing machines are the least expensive sewing machines and use the most primitive technologies. An AC electric motor turns a belt which turns the upper sewing machine shaft. The upper shaft transfers the mechanical energy along the shaft past the cam system to the needle system. A lever on a parabola connection transfers the mechanical movement down to the lower sewing machine shaft which may be split into a dual lower shaft one to drive the hook and a second to drive the feed dogs.

Mechanical implies levers and gears working together. When you examine the insides of a mechanical sewing machine, you see a large gear with strange ridges and valleys around it. Then you see levers that rub against or run along the edge of this large gear. This motion conveys this motion to the needle bar enabling the bar to create a variety of stitches.

Cam tracker alignment are adjusted by surface mounted dials, buttons, or levers. The position of the cam tracker lever determines the stitch produced. The position of the stitch selector lines up the tracker to form the selected stitch. If it gets out of line, it will fail to produce the desired stitch. To fix this, adjust the stitch selector connection on the cam tracker and align it with the proper groove on the cam gear. Also look closely to make sure the cam gear has not cracked or broken.

One step above the mechanical machine is a class of sewing machines that applies a variety of electronic devices. These devices are often used for better stitch selection. Usually, the electronics are used to improve power control. There are blended machines. Some blend mechanical machines with limited electronics. Others use loads of electronic devices even blending with computerized parts. Electronic sewing machines significantly improve the smoothness, dependability, and ease of sewing machine use.

Primarily the electronic machines add improved power control and smoother operation of the sewing machine. The hum of the mechanical sewing machines AC motor is reduced or eliminated. Electronic sewing machines offer many more stitches.

Computerized sewing machines use the most advanced technologies to produce the greatest number of different stitches, smoothest sewing, and most dependable operations. Computer input is made either by pre-programming, touching buttons on the computer keypad, or a touch screen. The computer takes the signal and manages a set of DC pulse motors to create and manage stitches. It is common for computerized sewing machines to offer hundreds of different stitches.

To choose a stitch on a mechanical sewing machine turn a dial, move a lever, or press a button.

On an electronic sewing machine, press a button attached to an electronic switch.

Touch the touch screen. Press a button on a keypad. Or, touch the button to choose stitches on a computerized sewing machine.

Learn to take advantage of all the features your sewing machine offers. Make your own stitch book for easy reference. Make sets of 5 by 7 pieces of fabric. Sew one seam across the top of the piece about an inch down. Drop down another inch and sew a new seam using a different stitch. Continue down the piece until the piece is complete. Start another piece and continue sewing all the different stitches of until you have a sample of every stitch on your sewing machine. Finally, seam the collection of pieces together into your own stitch book.

Now you know how to select the various stitches on your sewing machine. You also have a visual example of each stitch.

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