Sunday, January 25, 2009

Considerations For Altering Sleeves

By Donna Trumble

My daughter found this super deal " 75% off of a pretty blouse. The problem was that there was a small tear on one sleeve. I suppose she could have tried repairing the tear, but she decided it would be better to just shorten the sleeve. Unfortunately, while my daughter sews some, she lacked the confidence to shorten the sleeve herself.

Interestingly, my husband David and I were in our closet at home. David was looking for a clean shirt. It has turned hot here in Texas, I mean hot. He realized that he did not have a decent short sleeved shirt. So, we decided to shorten the long sleeved shirts, and maybe this fall we will buy a whole new wardrobe of long sleeved shirts.

There are many reasons to alter a shirt. Wear and tear often ruin a shirt sleeve, but as a short sleeved shirt, it would be fine.

A sleeve can be changed in many ways. You can vary the length significantly from sleeveless to short sleeve to three quarter sleeve length. You have many options to enhance the sleeve with lace, frills, or cuffs. It is a project that you can have real confidence doing if you follow some very basic steps.

Initially, identify how long you want the sleeve to be. Since you have many options, you must decide. If it is helpful compare other shirts you have until you get a good idea what you really want.

Second, Measure both under- arm seam and at the shoulder. Add 1 " to this measurement, and mark the fabric with a fabric marker.

Next, cut from one measurement to the other. This should be a straight even cut.

Fourth, Since the sleeve shape tapers, you will need to take out the stitching almost to the underarm seam. Reshape the under arm (sleeve). Sew a seam on the inside of the sleeve to hold that taper in place.

Note: the inch and a half fold over must be cut exactly opposite of the taper angle in order both front and back of the sleeve to allow for opposite taper on the hem.

Step Five, complete the hem. Look at the blouse. Do you see any top stitching? If so, you may simply fold the fabric under and top stitch. Otherwise, you will need to install a blind hem. Turn half an inch under and press with your iron. Fold another one inch and press again. Sew.

Your sewing machine may have a specialty stitch called the blind hem stitch. You can use this stitch with the specialty blind hem foot to produce your blind hem. You can also get exceptional professional results using a specialty machine called a blind hemmer.

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